February 12, 1947 Christian Dior made a sensational display «Corolle» collection. Reporter Harper’s bazaar magazine (the first American fashion magazine), Kermel Snow called the collection “New Look». She also said: “Dior saved Paris as well, as Paris was rescued in the battle of the Marne. ” Everyone was talking about revolution in fashion, but it was only a return to normalcy and good taste. Dior back into fashion romantic and feminine image. He wanted to revive the tradition of the great luxury in the French fashion. And that concealed the secret of his success. Dior once said, “Europe is tired of falling bombs. Now she wants to light the fireworks. ”
Christian Dior brand story
Preferring long skirts, Dior challenged the post-war trends. The success of the first collection of Dior immediately caused a strong reaction not only in France but also in the US, where the fashion designers had to remodel just completed collection. They called him reckless and provocative. In devastated France, where fabrics were in short supply, it lengthened the skirt.
Grand Master of his time Balensyaga, admitted that he finds diorovsky treatment of tissue terrible. Multi-layer lining of teak, starched linen, tulle – it is contrary to the basic credo Balensyagi “let fabric speak for itself.” But the sharpest criticism was by Chanel: “Dior? It does not suit women. He fills them. ”
However, despite the criticism, Dior dresses have become incredibly popular, women competed for the right to buy them.
In 1949, Christian Dior owned 75% of the total French exports in the field of fashion. In the same year, according to a survey of the French Institute for Social Research, Gallup, Dior has been named among the five most famous people in the world.
Dior knew the market. He introduced a completely new type of presentation, which had nothing to do with power, quiet pre-war fashion shows. At Dior mannequins were theatrical, majestically sailed past the spectators. Models succeeded each other so rapidly, that was breathtaking at this time sounded fancy name: “Number one: Verdi! Number two: Pergolesi! Number three: Wagner! “. This performance could last up to two hours and never get bored.
Every six months Dior offered a new direction. He was the first designer who from one collection to the next could radically change the length of skirts and even the whole silhouette. He tried to fashion quickly out of fashion, he took care of the sensations in the press, trade unraveled.
Christian Dior was born on January 21, 1905 in Granville in Normandy. He was the fifth child in the family of the owner of the factory fertilizers Maurice Dior. Since childhood, Christian interested in fashion and retained a deep affection and admiration for his elegant mother. Christian wanted to become an artist, but his father was against it, and he began to study the policy ostensibly to become a diplomat. At the same time his father funded his small gallery to son could satisfy his penchant for modern art. But in the early 30’s due to the stock market crash and unprofitable investments, Mr. Dior has lost all his fortune, and Christian himself had to earn a living. He was forced to abandon the gallery and briefly worked as a freelance illustrator, until he received a fixed place of the artist in the fashion magazine by Robert Piguet. Christian Dior brand story
In 1939, Dior had to go to war, but a year later he was demobilized. He went to his father and sister in Southern France and began working as a farmer.
In 1941, Dior returned to Paris, where he was lucky to get a designer to Lucien Lelong. For several years, Christian Dior so radically updated silhouette Lelong, that one day an American journalist asked who this talented young man behind the scenes. It instilled Dior courage to start independent work. He was able to arouse interest in their projects at an incredibly wealthy textile magnate Marcel Boussac. Fabrikant liked the idea of the magnificent silhouette that requires huge fabric consumption – so the Avenue Montaigne (Avenue Montaigne) was opened House of Dior. There he is, and sow day.
Christian Dior fashion house history
Some believe that the mother of Dior, which had already died long ago, had its great influence fashion. Rustling petticoats, she came to kiss the boy at night, before going to the ball, and the memory of this majestic beauty does not leave Dior’s life. Dior was a mama’s boy – gentle, soft, timid, dreamy. Everyone who worked with him describe him as humble and polite. Even with the intern, he bowed and made way for them to lift. With the attention he applied to each of the several hundred of its employees: in the last month he has chosen for all the appropriate Christmas gifts. Dior was gourmet and hated loneliness. He has always been surrounded by a small company of close friends. His weakness was superstition. He did not take a single decision without consulting with his fortune teller Madame Delahaye. Once she predicted to him that he will be known for the women. It is for her advice Dior Boussac accepted the offer and with him founded the fashion house.
Dior’s personality was so gentle, soft, so obviously exposed to fears of the artist, that these traits is easily concealed under a businessman talent. Already during the first visit to America, where he arrived in 1947 at the invitation of Texas merchant Neiman Marcus for the “Oscar” in the field of design, Dior realized that this market is fraught with possibilities that no one suspected. “We sell the idea” – he said, having in mind that it would be permitted to freely copy the masterpieces, but so that the author received a certain amount of all sales. In other words, Dior invented the license fee. Since 1949, each replicating his ideas gave interest. Thus, the production of accessories and perfumes became very profitable.
“Perfume, the shade is unbeaten female identity, the image the final touch,” – used to say, Dior. His first fragrance, he released in 1947, immediately after the debut of the show, which brought him a resounding success. It was the “Miss Dior» (Miss Dior), their delicate scent with the scent of lily of the valley – his mother’s favorite colors Christian Dior – was a match for the new silhouette, light and airy. Following the «Miss Dior» left «Diorama» (Diorama) and “Diorissimo» (Diorissimo). All this shows how right was Jean Cocteau, had previously deciphered the name of his friend Dior as a compound of two words Di – by Dieu ( «God”) and Or ( «gold»).
Striving for perfection hurts every great couturier – millimeters could finally decide what it is: the triumph or fall, Dior also shoulder the additional burden – opened branches abroad. He invented a special model for its stores in London, New York and Caracas, focused on the needs and the proportions of the figure of local shoppers. Simply put, Dior had to develop about 1,000 models a year. This production plan was particularly burdensome for such designers as Dior – because to create an original collection for each cabin was a matter of honor. Health Dior deteriorated – due in part to the hypertrophied suspiciousness. In the mid-50s he had obvious symptoms of stress.
Army servants who cared for his various houses, had to wear sheepskin slippers to keep absolute rest Dior. Sometimes the nerves of the artist been so strained that his soothsayer and his driver Perrotin, Dior lover in a distant youth, had to go around the block a few times before the designer dared to enter the salon on the Avenue Montaigne. Its director Madame Raymond sometimes woke phone call host of the night – he was crying like a baby.
Outsiders can hardly notice any changes in Dior, in addition, that it is increasingly lost weight. Only Perrotin was known to the deepest mystery of Dior: he already had two heart attacks. And there was another mystery – for many years he was unhappy in love. Countless attractive young men refused to offer him something more than friendship. Eventually, in 1956, his penchant reciprocated pretty young man of North African origin, Jacques Benita. In a rural conservative, constantly thinking about their reputation, Dior was so in love that show up with a new friend in public. For him, Dior would seem particularly attractive, so in 1956 he decided to take a course of weight loss in Montecatini. Prophetess Delahaye, seeing disturbing signs cards, implored him to change plans. For the first time in the life of Dior did not listen to her advice. Together with his driver, the head of the fashion salon and a young daughter of the cross, he went to a spa in Italy. On the tenth day of his stay there, October 23, 1957 Dior evening fell, exhausted, barely having time to finish the game Canasta. In ’52 from sudden cardiac arrest, he died one of the most influential fashion designers of all time.
Subsequently, at the head of the House of Dior visit many outstanding designers. So in 1953, in a fashion house comes the young and timid Yves Saint Laurent (Yves Saint Laurent), who after the death of Christian Dior became the leading fashion houses Dior. After Yves Saint Laurent called up for military service, his place is taken by Marc Boan (Marc Bohan) in 1960. Subsequently Boana replaced Gianfranco Ferre (Gianfranco Ferre) in 1989. In October 1996, John Galliano (John Galliano) was appointed Dior chief designer houses. Today, Dior brand owned holding company LVMH (Louis Vuitton-Moet Hennessy).